Riccardo Tisci 接受《WWD》专访谈及男装设计生涯

意大利设计师 Riccardo Tisci 是当今时尚圈中最具影响力的设计师之一，他不仅以创意总监的身份让法国老牌时装屋 Givenchy 起死回生，并为品牌创造了巨大的商业价值，更凭借著独到的审美理念引领了一波时尚与街头混搭的 Hi-Street 热潮。为了庆祝这位天才设计师在 Givenchy 的第十个年头，最近时尚网站《WWD》便请来 Tisci 接受访问，深入探讨了诸多热点话题，包括时尚领域的中性设计、自己的男装设计生涯与创作缪斯，以及 Instagram 粉丝等等，下面便带来此次访谈的节选内容，感兴趣的朋友不妨点击这里阅读完整内容。

You’ve pushed gender boundaries in men’s wear. Do you think it’s a sign of dynamism in men’s wear?

I think it’s fantastic. Over the last few years, there’s more and more freedom and less of a gulf between women and men, which is great. Women, they have more power, which I love. I’m very feminist, and men as well have less paranoias. There are now fewer taboos in the men’s world. When you go into straight clubs or to the gym, you can find straight men putting together looks that are strong and bold, which I love. Also, men today are taking care of themselves more.

Do you have any male muses, as Italian model Mariacarla Boscono seems to be for women’s? For example, you’ve been dressing Jared Leto, including for the Oscars.

It’s hard to find a Mariacarla in the men’s world because she’s so strong and so unique. But I’ve got a lot of men around me and I really like the way they put clothes together, including people on my design team. I really like the way Matthew Barney dresses, and then, of course, Antony Hegarty is really inspiring for me.